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Peak Mountain 3

Destination Unknown

FA Mike Long, Rand Black, Jan 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route features the fine-grained and varnished Aplite rock, perhaps some of the best rock around.

Approach to the east side of the dome by climber's access route.

Rock Scramble easiest way up to belay at base of east facing ramp. Climb face up past bolt, 5.7 along ramp of left facing dihedral to small ledge at midway.  Place med to large cam in horizontal crack above midway ledge, then climb up past bolts.  Climb up and right onto the east arete, past 5.8 crux to belay/rappel anchor bolts.

Note:  When the second follows the route, at the top when the last bolt is unclipped, flip the rope to the climbers right for better rope angle to prevent a long pendulum left along the top edge if the second falls in the crux.

Location

East side of the dome Approach east side of the Glass Dome via climbers access route to boulder scramble to belay. Descend via single rope rappel down south face of dome to ledge at base of the White Line.  Then down scramble from ledge to the southwest to base of climb.  Longer 70 m. rope MAY reach base from rappel anchors?

Protection

Bolts, small to medium cams, small wires.