Wreel

Wreel (W.r.e.e.l.=Weighty Roosters Expect Extreme Limitations)...a climb with a strange acronym but great climbing on mostly good rock. You'll find enjoyable face climbing and an interesting crux capped off by a long, moderate groove system reminiscent of those in the Dragoons. Back in the day, the main face was gained by climbing a tree to the first bolt and stepping onto the face. Well, that tree is long gone, leaving 20'+ of impossible, smooth, overhung face. Instead, either stick clip the first and only bolt, or clip it on rappel (double rope rap from good tree at top of chimney just below Great Expectations/Desire platform...this is also your anchor). Brass nuts and technomicrowidgets are key for protecting the middle of this climb.

Spot the obvious bolt ~ 25' left of the start of Great Expectations

Doubles 0.3-#3 Camalot, singles gray-red C3 or similar, brass nuts, stoppers, ballnuts?