If At First

Another Lemmon test piece. If you enjoyed Dragoon grooves like the first pitch of Be All End All or the second pitch of Sound of One Hand Thrashing, then you will probably love this route. Established as a two pitch climb, modern ropes and hardware now make this better done as one epic pitch. Balancey face and "crack" climbing off the ground launches you onto run-out, bolt and gear protected face. Once you reach the third bolt (original anchor with one new bolt), prepare yourself: things are about to get groovy! Worm your way up the burly, unforgiving groove above using just about every trick in your bag. Finish in the large chimney and belay from a solid pinyon pine at the top. Before entering this chimney, I used an orange Metolius in a horizontal on the right face to keep the rope from getting stuck in a notch at the top of the groove.

Find the odd-looking "crack" system ~30' right of the start of Desire. The groove is obvious far above.

Doubles in 0.2 through #3 Camalot, 1x #4, optional #5, 1x purple Metolius size, stoppers