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Peak Mountain 3

Cost of Business

FA JS, Oct. 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Named to commemorate a new 70 meter rope that was cut by a large block as the line was being cleaned, the route is well worth the walk for someone breaking into 5.9 trad. Start by climbing a shallow left-leaning ramp leading to a vertical thin crack bisecting the clean-looking buttress bearing the bolted lines of

Tyrion

to the right and

Cersei

to the left. Follow the cracks above to a substantial ledge. At the ledge walk left to its end, make a few moves up and hand traverse left into a dihedral leading to an obvious roof crack. Belay from gear (takes at least one 3.5 or 4 inch cam) under the roof crack at a small footstance. (5.6 or 5.7).

The second pitch powers out the roof crack (5.9) then cruises easier ground to a ledge with chain anchors (the top of the second pitch of Starstruck), but ignore the anchors and continue up the crack to the right to a bulge. After surmounting the bulge, step left around the buttress back onto the face and climb near the buttress to the top (if nervous, you can climb a bit more left and clip a bolt or two on the last 30 feet of

Mad Calf

). Bolt anchors await on top.

Location

See the approach for

Starstruck

. Once on the ledge system, walk east on the trail to where it begins to slope down. Above is a clean-looking buttress with three obvious lines on it, the center being the shallow dihedral/thin crack start to

Cost of Business

and the bolted routes to either side being

Cersei

and

Tyrion

. See the

Cersei

page for a beta photo of the start. See the

Starstruck

page for descent options.

Protection

Standard trad rack; include at least one 3.5-4 inch cam for the belay atop the first pitch.