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Peak Mountain 3

Major Tom

FA John Steiger, Allen Sanderson, July 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Major Tom

is the attractive two-part arête to the left of

Le Rap et Tap

, offering excellent rock and some of the best exposure in BCC. The first part is protected by three bolts up to a ledge. The second part begins by stepping right off the ledge to avoid a severely undercut section of the arête, and then moving back left past the fourth bolt to regain the arête above the undercut. A small cam with a runner protects the move to clip the fourth bolt. Above, one more bolt protects exciting climbing (take a deep breath) to the large belay ledge shared with

Rear-View Mirrors

,

Le Rap

, and

Wealth of Nations

. Really a sport route, but calling it trad to keep off the draws-only crowd.

Location

Approach as for

Le Rap et Tap

and

Wealth of Nations

.

Major Tom

can be led from either the ledge and pine tree at the base of those routes (consider using longish draws on the first three bolts) or, less comfortably, from a small footstance and cams near the base of the arête (which would require some exposed third or fourth classing to reach).

Protection

Five draws for the bolts, and a few finger-size cams and long runner. Lower or rap chains.