- Edit (TBD)
Texas, My Milk Farm
Description
this is a slab climb with thin face holds and big committing moves passing bolts. I did not think it was quite as well protected as A Date with Dale, but the cruxes are protected.
Start at the top of the big detached flake that forms a chimney below you. Start up a somewhat loose flake and face climb 1st crux( 12a ). easier face climbing ( 11a to 5.10 ) trending right to a ledge, another crux that is committing steep and blank ( 12a ). 3rd crux near top with lower angle friction and reachy face holds trending right to shared anchor.
This route had just a exploratory cleaning, still very dirty as of May 2019.
Location
furthest left route above big flake/boulder. Very wet on the left.
Protection
8 lead bolts, all need replacing, rusty bolts with SS hangers that were all buried in some deep shag moss likely untouched for 25 years.
Routes in Gilligan's Toe
- 1Texas, My Milk Farm5.12aSport