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Peak Mountain 3

Texas, My Milk Farm

FA Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer, Erik Thixton, early 90's ?
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

this is a slab climb with thin face holds and big committing moves passing bolts. I did not think it was quite as well protected as A Date with Dale, but the cruxes are protected.

Start at the top of the big detached flake that forms a chimney below you. Start up a somewhat loose flake and face climb 1st crux( 12a ). easier face climbing ( 11a to 5.10 ) trending right to a ledge, another crux that is committing steep and blank ( 12a ). 3rd crux near top with lower angle friction and reachy face holds trending right to shared anchor.

This route had just a exploratory cleaning, still very dirty as of May 2019.

Location

furthest left route above big flake/boulder. Very wet on the left.

Protection

8 lead bolts, all need replacing, rusty bolts with SS hangers that were all buried in some deep shag moss likely untouched for 25 years.


Routes in Gilligan's Toe


1000 km
1000 mi