- Edit (TBD)
Leaves and Grass
Description
This is the middle route with a left facing corner flaring groove.
The upper face climbing is the crux.
10a/10b in the Cramer book.
Which is either 5.10 or much harder if you don't find the easier path.
This stays pretty dry and dries off quickly after rain.
I also cleaned a alternate start even lower that pulls up through a burly undercling layback.
This is clean as of 6/5/19, but still has some maple branches up against the wall.
Location
Start at top of detached flake/boulder traversing ledge to the right.
Or start below boulder with layback around a flake ( might be 10c )
Protection
The Cramer book calls this a bolts only route, but the LFC takes good cams from fingers to hands.
There are 6 lead bolts ( all rusty, but look reasonably good )
There is a rusty anchor at about 90', I added a new SS anchor above this 1/20/19 ( the rope does not drag over the slab this way)
Routes in Gilligan's Toe
- 2Leaves and Grass5.10Trad