On Ballet

Nice three pitch route with surprising climbing. On the left side of Blob rock--start twenty feet or so down the hill from a large detached flake (on the ground) and climb an easy ramp up to a small ledge.

P1. Start the roped climbing here--a thin crack that angles to the right. Then head back to the left around the corner and up the the steep dihedral. This takes good gear and is solid 8+ stemming--belay on a small edge up a ramp after the dihedral.

P2: Right from the belay anchors, traverse straight right (intimidating but easy) to a R-facing dihedral and move up the thin crack (9) that also has some bomber holds. After the crack ends, traverse left slightly, place a #2 Friend or similar at your feet on a narrow ledge, then make some runout moves up the dike system. A small TCU can be placed about 1/2 way through this slab section in a shallow pocket. Now angle up and left toward the large chimney. Climb up the chimney a short way and locate two bolts. This pitch will create a lot of rope drag if you're not careful.

P3: Take the right-hand face/crack out of the chimney for a short way until a large ledge. You can go straight up to a huge ledge and walk right to a set or rappel anchors (one 60m, two raps). OR, you can 4th class across the top of the chimney to the left, angle left up a ramp with several dead trees, then 4th class back down ramps, always traversing West. When you see the chains for some sport routes, keep 4th classing above them and walk off.

Standard rack--small TCU for slab traverse on P2.