We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Talon Contest

FA Dougald MacDonald, Sari Nicoll
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This could be seen as either a variation to the last pitch of

Where Eagles Dare

or an independent climb in the same vein as

Decade Dance

or

Aging Time

. It starts at the bolt anchor over the roof on

Where Eagles Dare

(also the end of the sport route

Respite

). Move left and through a bulge on a hand crack, then hand traverse left about 10 feet above the roof (5.8 or 5.9). Keep moving up and left until you're in a vague corner system, about six feet right of the prow. Climb straight up, passing a very tricky crux with small-wire pro, a steep lieback, and easier crack climbing to the top.

There is still a lot of lichen on this line, so it's tough to assess its difficulty -- hard 5.10 seems a good place to start. I will return when I get a chance and brush it. Already it's a much more interesting finish to

Where Eagles Dare

than the normal cracks. It's got great position, perfect pro, and really fun climbing.

Protection

Bring RPs and/or a very small stopper.