- Edit (TBD)
Description
This could be seen as either a variation to the last pitch of
Where Eagles Dare
or an independent climb in the same vein as
Decade Dance
or
Aging Time
. It starts at the bolt anchor over the roof on
Where Eagles Dare
(also the end of the sport route
Respite
). Move left and through a bulge on a hand crack, then hand traverse left about 10 feet above the roof (5.8 or 5.9). Keep moving up and left until you're in a vague corner system, about six feet right of the prow. Climb straight up, passing a very tricky crux with small-wire pro, a steep lieback, and easier crack climbing to the top.
There is still a lot of lichen on this line, so it's tough to assess its difficulty -- hard 5.10 seems a good place to start. I will return when I get a chance and brush it. Already it's a much more interesting finish to
Where Eagles Dare
than the normal cracks. It's got great position, perfect pro, and really fun climbing.
Protection
Bring RPs and/or a very small stopper.
Routes in Main Wall
- 22Talon Contest5.10+Trad