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Peak Mountain 3

Country Roads

FA FFA John Stannard and Pat Milligan 1971
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Location

About 30 feet right of V-3, at a vertical crack/seam that ends at a ledge 25 feet up.

Protection

There is good protection up the initial easy vertical crack, but once you reach the ledge, protection seemed to be lacking until you get to the face off the ledge to the roof (I didn't look too hard; 5.7 R?). Once you reach the right-facing flakes/corner in the roof, a couple of fixed micro nuts are available (you shouldn't trust these), and then the crux proper is protected with a cheater sling/cord that hangs with an oval 'biner (you really shouldn't trust this! RIP, 2014, see comments). The cord is fixed and tied off to a pin in the corner above. All you have to do is clip, trust that manky fixed cord/pin, and execute the boulder problem. Above the roof, protection is obvious, and the climbing is much easier.

Pitch 2 requires a standard Gunks rack.