- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Either boulder up to the pine ledge at 15', or if it's wet, walk around left. From the pine ledge, gain the right-facing corner, and make enjoyable moves to about halfway up it. Step left onto the face, then up and back towards the crack. Finish up the crack to the bolted anchor. "Direct" variation: stay in the right-facing corner (5.9) instead of stepping left.
P2: The second pitch is also worth doing. A hardish move off the belay ledge leads up a shelved face to the overhang above. Traverse up and left to a fixed pin, then through the notch in overhang (crux) and up right until one can go up the face to the grand traverse ledge. Soft 5.8, but with thinnish pro on the (easy) face prior to the overhang.
Location
60 ft. right of the Dis-Mantel block,and behind a big tree; look for an obvious right-facing corner above a short overhang.
Protection
Standard rack - make sure you have small pieces or small nuts. There is a pair of bolts & chains just below and left of the tree at the ledge.
Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
- 3Raunchy5.8Trad