- Edit (TBD)
Chicken Dance
Description
Early in 2002 or late in 2001 Dan Hare added a fine new line immediately to the right of
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck
. This route starts out in the seam and either slips left to the large hole or picks off a move or two on the right. Chase the slippery seam/crack to a good rest at 20 feet. In principle, a very thin (!) sequence follows with a good jug just out of reach. In February, Pat Burwick flashed the route using these tiny holds; however, there is a good hand to be found to the right and almost in the chimney and this hold could knock off some of the thin crimps. A large wing span will gain the jug from this edge. While this is a good route on solid stone, it will probably be done most often using a stem into the adjacent chimney for the first half of the route. Nontheless, it's clear that Dan's intent was to run the crack.
Protection
Ten draws and a rope. Double bolt anchors exist at the top of
Mrs. Hen
and ten feet higher where a second double bolt anchor has been placed.
Routes in Overhang Area
- 26Chicken Dance5.12aSport