Early in 2002 or late in 2001 Dan Hare added a fine new line immediately to the right of

Mrs. Hen Places a Peck

. This route starts out in the seam and either slips left to the large hole or picks off a move or two on the right. Chase the slippery seam/crack to a good rest at 20 feet. In principle, a very thin (!) sequence follows with a good jug just out of reach. In February, Pat Burwick flashed the route using these tiny holds; however, there is a good hand to be found to the right and almost in the chimney and this hold could knock off some of the thin crimps. A large wing span will gain the jug from this edge. While this is a good route on solid stone, it will probably be done most often using a stem into the adjacent chimney for the first half of the route. Nontheless, it's clear that Dan's intent was to run the crack.

Chicken Dance

This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim

Off Line

2 Ways 2 Hell

Here Today Gone Tomorrow

What Line?

Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route

Beer Pong

Smear Me A Beer

Toura Handle

Intuition

Mr. Peery Take A Bow

Hellbound II

Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut

Crack to Chimney

Tora, Tora, Tora

The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route

Serious Play

Natural Fact

Mrs. Hen Places a Peck

Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers

Hippy School

Toast & Jam?

Pack 'o Bobs

War With A Rack

Wholly Holey

Corniche

The Ground Doesn't Lie

The Plumber's Crack

Beer Barrel Buttress

Half and Half 2

Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain

Sidelines

Crack/Bulge

Hellraiser

In Between the Lines

Toura Obscura

Top Rope Face

Routefinding 101

Handle This Hard On!

This route is about 40 yards west of

Deck Chairs on the Titanic

. Look for the strange and obvious bird hole in the middle of a clean face. Start up the left edge of said clean face, then follow the bolts up and to the right.

This is a fun, little moderate which favors balance over power, grace over brute.  This route has evolved over time.  It used to sport less bolts, a few odd bits of hardware.  As I recall, a good piece of protection used to be a sling over the large flake before the face moves.  This is a nice warmup.

To start, you can ease into a few balanced, opposing sidepulls past the first bolt.  Then continue up easy but less-protected terrain.  Move right to a large flake.  Balance up, find the correct sequence of balance and semi-slopers, high step, find a combo mantel/pull/heel hook sequence and you are nearly done.  Easy moves with a jam bring you to the anchors.  Rap.

This is my favorite 9 at N Table.  It is on the fat side of 2 stars...it is Table.

Thanks, Ken!

Myke, I took responsibility for the description, since there was no description for the route.

This is a very straightforward line up the blunt arete (#46 in picture). Note, this cliff gets sun till very late, it is great for warmer winter days.

This route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the

Hellraiser

chimney.

I cleaned some scary loose rock out of the chimney, and I also cleaned a lot of dirt and rubble out of the obvious, sweet hand crack just right of the chimney. Enjoy the clean handcrack!!!! Too bad it is not wayyyy longer. I placed two # 1 Camalots to get to the now clean ledge.

Start # 2 climbs up the bulgy face around the corner and to the right of the previous start. This start climbs past 1 bolt, then a good medium TCU placement, then another bolt to the obvious ledge. Once on the ledge, one can make the route way harder and even more contrived and climb left of the bolts that lead up the clean face past the overlap and to the anchor on the ledge 5.?. Being the weak man that I am, I climbed to the chimney clipping the first bolt on the left. I then placed two RPs in the bomber flake and then moved left onto the awesome steep face past the overlap and on sweet jugs to the ledge and the chain anchor on the left. One can also bail out right to the anchor for "

Half and Half 2

".

Begin Here Today Gone Tomorrow just left of the starts for

Mr. Peery

and

Mrs. Hen

. The 5.11 variation runs straight up, the standard line lines dodges left for a short distance. Either way converges on an airy step-over shortly before the anchors. While the 5.11 variation seems contrived, the step-over gives the route some interest.

This is a silly little variation that turns out to be a bit interesting for a few moves.

Start somewhere either on

Sidelines

or just to the left on easy terrain.  Gain a ledge at mid-height.  Now comes a few interesting moves.  If you utilize some holds left of the dihedral, it may be 10-.  If you have left hand in the dihedral and smedge the left foot in the corner, it may feel 10+.  Gear would be tiny through this bit, and the ledge is pretty close, so fill 'er up.  You can traverse right at the top to the bolt anchors for

Sidelines

.

Note, there is a loose block on above the crux with a chalked X on it.  With all the folks and stuff below, it needed to wait to be cleaned until a better time.  It is just above and left of Jeroen's right hand in the photo.

It's not in Hubbel's

Front Range Crags

, Haas'

North Table Mountain: Rock Climbs at the Golden Cliffs

, or Rolofson's

Golden Rock Climbs

.

This route is called "Sloping Forehead" in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado."

It begins just right of the top of the approach trail; two lines right of "

This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim

", and one line right of "

The Fabulous Flying Carr's Route

".

Start on the left side of an arete, traverse right after the third bolt, and top out at an anchor shared with "

Pack 'o Bobs

".

A good beginner lead and an easy warm up.

This seemed like a pretty obvious line.  It would be hard to imagine that it hasn't been climbed.  It's a little dirty (I've seen worse here), and there is some loose rock, but I would say it is worth a lap.

15 feet left of the ever popular,

This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim

(5.9), is a small, discontinuous arete below a south-facing head wall. This is Smear Me A Beer and is another very worthy problem that sees far too little traffic for such a nice line. Solve the arete for 5.11b, this comes at you right away, and get established on the top of the arete. Climbing switches gears immediately. A nice entry move gains the face above for 25 feet of nice 5.10 edge climbing. Smear is another fine addition to the NTM stockpile for which I have been unable to locate any FA data. I thought this was a more interesting problem than many more popular climbs of its grade.

This is really sort of a link-up variation that might entertain those who are looking for novel ascents in this heavily travelled section of the cliff. Based upon its chalk, it's been done before. The name may not be quite accurate, but it really goes over perhaps 15' of distinct terrain, so we'll just hybridize the names for now.

If you decide to lead this, start by clipping the 1st bolt of

Toura Obscura

. Then, back down and move up and left in the sort-of-right-facing fractured corner slightly left of the bolt line. Gain a finger crack on the right where you can get some gear. Use a hip scum to wriggle through the first bulge. Fiddle some more gear, and squirm into the pod-like spot. Continue up and left and finish with the last bit of

Handle This Hard One

.

About 40' left of

The Ground Doesn't Lie

, climb a dirty/broken chimney/dihedral to a ledge, then go up the face following the three bolts present.  There is a two bolt anchor on the face where it finally gets interesting.

In 1997 or thereabouts Mr. Mayfield Peery donated the climbing crags, the parking areas,  and the region of the approach trail to the Access fund in order to preserve climbing on North Table Mountain. This act rescued the area from development that was about to expand up the hill. Furthermore, it was an act of generosity that was taken in the face of vociferous opposition by the neighborhood residents, all of whom teamed up against Mr. Peery. Hearings were held at the Golden City Council meeetings, climbers spoke, neighbors spoke, and Mr. Peery quietly gave the land away, and he gave it away to the climbers. Pretty amazing. Particularly so when you figure how many people in the greater Denver metropolitan area use North Table Mountain for a quick after work pitch or so, or just to pull down a dozen routes in a day.  I cannot think of another example where a single individual's generosity has so directly affected so many climbers - in a good way!!!! We put this route in in order to engrave in stone our thanks to Mayfield Peery. Sometimes we don't even recognize who our friends are, but we will not forget Mr. Peery.

The climbing on Mr. Peery Take A Bow  begins with the first two clips of

Mrs. Hen Places A Peck.

Where Mrs. Hen cuts right onto the overhanging face, Mr. Peery cuts left up a short slot to finish on the arete of the Mrs Hen face. It is common to cop a rest before the crux by stepping off left above the slot. In princlple, and we can make up any rules we want, the route does not step left, but stays strictly on the arete. The moves are fun and well protected. Look for holds on both sides of the arete!!

Two stars for Mr. Peery; I'd give it five for him alone, but I still have to consider the climb itself.

This climbs better than it looks.  The crack is pretty wide but not many jams are needed.  There are face holds that are good for stemming and it is possible to chimney between the dihedral walls.  At the roof, step to the left and climb a few moves to the anchors on

Smear Me a Beer

.

This is a mix of everything: some crack moves, open-handed slopers, layback moves, and a roof to pull over. There are non-existent feet through the lower face, especially at the crux moves between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

This is another squeezed in trad line between a couple bolted lines,

Pack 'o Bobs

and

Wholly Holey

.  I'm confident it's been climbed, but it is not listed in the Haas guidebook.

Start as for either

Pack 'o Bobs

or

Wholly Holey

.  If you like, you can clip the 1st bolt of

Wholly Holey

, I did.  Then go up the crack on gear.  The crux is probably at the top of the crack.  Then, it continues up into chimney terrain.  At the top of the chimney, you can make a reverse, mini-

Fine Jade, P6

-like move around to the anchors of

Wholly Holey

.

Per

Sean Riley

:

BEWARE!

The "chimney" is actually a giant, detached block the size of a refrigerator.

Do NOT chimney on it

. This block now wobbles and will fall if pushed.

There are two options for the lower half of this route, both around 5.8. The cracks to the left are a little more awkward than the dihedral stemming over to the right. If you take the latter option, be sure to put a long sling on your last piece to minimize rope drag. Either way, now you're on a comfy ledge looking up at the intimidating, slightly overhanging face above. Thin hands and technical feet will make you earn your way to the anchors.

The higher you go, the tougher it gets. Some cool hand jams down low and then some balancy moves on small, slopey holds towards the top. Resist the temptation to chicken out and exit off the right side!

This is a challenging route that would be serious to lead. Leave it to Mike Cichon to awe us mortals with faith in sticky rubber and tiny RPs. Most will do this as a TR to preserve one's ankles.

Start with the tight hands crack to the right of

Hellraiser

. Gain the ledge at half height. Fiddle in a good RP or maybe two, but you can now clip the bolt on

2 Ways to Hell

to make it less hazardous. Two barndoor moves to gain the crack sidepulls with your left hand and a deadpoint to just below the roof gets you more stable. Another left hand slap above the roof and a high step gets you to the finger crack lieback and the top.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with very thin chains.

FWIW, I think this name is similar to Steve Dieckhoff's book.

This wide crack is right of

This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim

and left of

The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route

.  There is a little of everything: offwidth, stems, and chimney.  If you're not William Howard Taft, you can tunnel through the chockstone at the top and belay from above.  Otherwise, go out and around the chockstone (recommended); and you can traverse right to the chain anchors on

The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route

.  There are a few loose pebbles, and the route is shady on a hot afternoon.

This is a thinner crack climb. It is a very obvious line. It crosses with "

Sidelines

" in the beginning and is labeled #50 in image.

Just to the left of

Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut

, follow the crack to the left of the overhang.  There are good hand/foot jams.

Climb the right-facing corner that has a nice, thin, finger crack at its back to a ledge below the upper face.  Clip two bolts, or don't, on the face and climb into the perfect hand crack at the top.

This route is called "Ivory Tower" in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado."

It starts just right of the top of the approach trail, immediately right of "

Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route

", and just left of Alan Nelson's new route "

Wholey Holy, Lord God Almighty

."

Climb past an overhang with a hand crack on the right, and continue up the face to an anchor shared with "

Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route

."

A good beginner lead and an easy warm up.

Hike the main trail to the cliff.  Look for a crack/corner system just right of the bolted prow of "

Wholely Holy, Lord God Almight

".  With two possiblities at the start, select the nice-looking handcrack through a bulge on the right.  Work up the steep corner above to the ledge atop the prow on the left. Set a directional piece (2"-2.5") to keep the rope hanging clean down the corner, clip the bolted anchor on the left, and lower off the left side of the prow.  It only gets one star at the present time because of lichen and a couple of loosies that are easily bypassed.  Otherwise, it is a nice crack that will take all the gear you can throw at it.

Addendum: one can also climb the bulging crack shown to the right of the climber at the start.

This route is easy to find: hike up the main trail until you hit the cliff.  You're now standing at the base of the route.  Look for a line of bolts up a featured prow with a roof at the bottom, just right of the bolted pair of routes "Sloping Forehead" and "

Ivory Tower

".  The crux is pulling the bulge at bolt #2 - a power move on good holds to a jug.  The rest of the pitch is quite steep on a ladder of buckets.  If the crux is problematic, it is easily bypassed on the right.  Thank God for his many blessings as you enjoy this route.

This is a crack climb, I didn't actually do it, but it is very obvious. The routes on this cliff have a tendency to run into each other. It is labeled #47 in image.

Rolofson limits the Overhang area on its West (left) side with The Ground Doesn't Lie. Since there is a good break between The Ground and The Pigeon Pile Pinnacle in the Table Top area, I have followed suit here - for the time being. The Ground... is a small, three bolt, boulder problem

(now extended and retrobolted to 7 bolts)

that sits 50 feet left of the very popular 5.9 called

In Between the Lines

.  Its most obvious feature is just being small (

now less so

). Surmount several tricky finger locks passing two clips and solve the crux at the third bolt. Hint: look around. This rounded buttress is something of an arete and has good holds on both sides. I thought that there was an additional sequence to be solved just getting to the anchor after the last bolt. This is a nice problem and is worth figuring out. It feels a little insecure.

Start at the same location as

Intuition

, but move left to a large ledge below a overhanging, right-facing dihedral.  Climb the dihedral to a crux just below the anchors.  A crack in the dihedral provides adequate protection.

Immediately right of '

The Ground Doesn't Lie

' is a bolted line that starts off a block at 12 feet or so. Scramble up to the first clip and negotiate another adhered block on its right side. You can make a clip before standing up to run the nice 5.10 face above. The last couple of bolts are a bit spacey, but the climbing is secure, edgy, and chock full of good ledges for the feet.

I thought there were two "cruxes" one was getting established above the second bolt and another arose somewhere in the chocolate face below the anchor. A worthy problem to play on for the foot work, however, it is not very strenuous.

Note, over the years, this route has become quite rounded in places.

The first part of this route climbs up now clean and bulgy cracks past good gear to the obvious ledge. Once on the ledge the route proceeds up the north-facing slab via fun moves past past 2 bolts to a fun mantel move onto another bivy ledge. Once on the ledge, climb past a bolt and then left to a chain anchor.

This is probably the best 5.9 trad line at Table.  Follow a hand crack to the left of

Mrs. Hen Places a Peck

.  Lead through the airy roof and belay off of the anchor for the climb to the right.

This starts off a bit easier, then it gets thinner (5.10) on face of upper half. It is labeled 49 on image.

This is a trad line just right of

Off Line

that follows a crack past two bulges.  It has been referenced as a variation of

Off Line

, but it has climbed since before there were bolts on this section of the cliff.

Move up a short bit of wide crack to a bulge (crux).  Stay right of the arete and keep your feet out until you can reach the finger crack over its top.  Pull over into the cramped alcove.  Work the hand crack on the right with feet on the left.  Move up the crack/dihedral.  Note, there is a stretch of perhaps 10 feet where you will be unable to get in protection.  Finish up the crack to the top.  Move right and down to clip the anchors for easy descent.  In the old days, you would walk off.

This felt hard for the 5.9 grade given in the Haas and Schneider guide.  The crux is the hand and fist crack.  Some holds to the left on

Chicken Dance

help in the crux region.  It is funny to use holds on a 5.12 to ease passage on a 5.9, but it seems like it would be much harder to jam the deep crack directly.  Once in the chimney above the crack, move left to the anchor.

Follow the bolts. There are plenty of good holds all around and a fun bulge in the middle of the climb. It is labeled #48 in the image.

Start in the right-facing dihedral with the crux between the second and third bolts.  This has stemming and face climbing.

Where the dihedral meets the overhang, step across to the face right above the overhang and follow several bolts to the chains.

There is a squeezed face climb to the right of

The Ground Doesn't Lie

that is listed in Haas' guidebook.

You can throw in an additional boulder problem start to the right on a tiny bulging chunk.  Then, go up some easy ground to the face just right of

The Ground Doesn't Lie

.  Ascend this face using some good body position to utilize some less than perfect holds.  About midway up, stay right to avoid

The Ground Doesn't Lie

.

Do the left start for

Tora Tora Tora

, left of the gully. Climb straight up cracks, placing gear or clipping the three recently placed, unnecessary bolts. Clip and extend the first bolt on the

TTT

headwall, to protect the committing crux up and left to an exposed position above the

Mr. Squirrel

anchors. Tiny cams can be placed in horizontals on the way up to the V-dihedral. Follow the short dihedral to the rim. Anchor with gear.

30 feet right of Ken Trout's route,

Mr Squirrel Places a Nut

, is a blunt arete flanked by two unappealing trad corners. The arete is Handle This Hard On - and a much beter route than the name would suggest. For a moderate 5.12, Handle is good problem because it delivers the crux right at the first bolt and backs off from there. The route will keep your attention, however, right to the end since it has several additional 5.11 cruxes on the way. The biggest challenge of Handle This seems to be in resisting the urge to dodge left, off the arete, to sneak back for the second clip. For working out the solution this is not bad dodge since it will set up a top rope for the crux. The real point seems to be in staying put on the little nothings for hands and feet until just above the second clip where a nice horrizontal jug awaits. I thought this was a very tricky and technical problem that was well worth sussing out the beta. I have not been able to locate any FA data for this line, which is unfortunate because it is one of the better routes on NTM.

Description

Protection

Routes in Overhang Area