- Edit (TBD)
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile)
Description
This route follows a crack that crosses several routes. It starts the same as unknown 5.9, it then cross the unkown route to its right and The King & Eye, and then finishes on Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call.
Although it's a very obvious line, it's not in Hubbel's book, so it may be a first ascent. The crack was rather dirty in between the routes it crosses and I wanted to give it a name rather than add another "unknown" to this area.
Start as for Unknown 5.9
[105760863
], clipping the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right, placing gear as you go. A #4 BD micro nut is helpful above the first bolt. The crack peters out just before the bolt on
The King & Eye
. Clip it and make a heady traverse over to
Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call
. From the top of the flake, run it out over easy ground to a two bolt anchor up and left of the obvious, large tree.
Rap about 120 feet to the ground or one short rap to the bolted anchor below and then another 80 feet to the ground.
Per
Jay Eggleston
": you can clip 3 bolts, not two.... The second route you cross is
Pork Meadows
.
Protection
2 QDs and trad gear. I used a #4 BD micro nut, a yellow, red, and orange Alien, and a #4 Friend.
Per
Jay Eggleston
": I placed a #0.5 Camalot and a #1.5 Friend (for those that don't use Aliens). I also used nuts.
Routes in Murphy's Dome South Face
- 9Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile)5.8+Trad