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Peak Mountain 3

Beer is Better

FA TR: Jay Eggleston, 5-6-16
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is certainly not the best route on the rock, but, if you are crazy enough to bring big gear to this rock, it is something to do. Most of the way your feet are on the slab and you only use the crack for your hands. You can lieback much of the crack, but in the best 10' of the climb, you can use hand jams to ascend. Near the edge of the crack the rock is quite friable. I broke much of the loose stuff off, but more remains. Your biggest piece will be the first you place which means your second will carry it up most of the climb. If you only have as big as a #6, it will be your first piece. It is a little risky getting up to where it can be used. My next piece was a #5. The best part of the climb is the short hand crack section about halfway up. There is a small sticker bush in the way up higher, but the climbing is easier here. You can belay from the anchors on

Irish Red

if you wish to do two pitches, or you can clip its anchors for pro.

Above, you follow a wide crack to the right which leads to the last two bolts on

Murphy's Law

. This crack takes a #6 and a #5, so it is good to do the climb in two pitches. The hardest parts are right at the beginning and at the last two bolts on

Murphy's Law

. Let me know if I did not have the first ascent, but I probably do.

Location

This is the wide crack between

Irish Red

and

Murphy's Law

. The start is near a small tree just to the left of the 1st bolt on

Murphy's Law

. You descend from the anchors on

Murphy's Law

.

Protection

Standard rack, mainly cams - 2 #5 Camalots (only 1 needed if done as two pitches), 2 #6 Camalots, and a blue Big Bro or Valley Giant. There is a bolt anchor midway and at the top.