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Chalkstone Chimney
Description
P 1. 35m 5.7- Start up an inside corner offwith for 30 feet in order to type out a triangular pinnacle at the base of the wall. Continue up slightly left of an arete that consists of moderate terrain on marginal rock and intermittent terrain. Aime for a 10 foot long crack that protects reasonably well but don't get suckered right to early or you will need to pull some exposed slab moves. Traverse right on a small ledge to a 2 bolt chain anchor at the base of the second pitch crack system. P 2. 25m 5.10 From the anchor, climb a large gully full of large intimidating blocks. The proud line starts on the right side of this feature just above the belay anchor and finishes on the right side of the chimney on small cams with exposed arete moves. The path of least resistance starts on the blocks to the left and finishes up the top out gully before traversing to the finish line. Awkward block wrestling on steep terrain is the name of the game. This route has seen extensive trundling with a pry bar and sledgehammer so most of the loose blocks have been dropped yet you should always proceed with caution while playing in the chugach.
Location
Chalkstone Chimney is located on the left side of the first large slab after passing a waterfall on the north-facing cliff. Is the glacier recedes this waterfall may disappear yet the route will still be located across from the Sunnyside Crag. (unless the entire wall falls down and reveals new routes)
Protection
Standard rack to 4 inch, 2 bolt chain anchors.
Routes in The Castle
- 1Chalkstone Chimney5.10Alpine · Trad