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Peak Mountain 3

Layback to the Future

FA Mike Webber, Nick Weicht, .....
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Description

This route climb the main dihedral and crack system located on the right side of the largest large slab in a 90-degree corner. Pitch 1- 5.11c standard rack to 4", 2 bolt chain anchor. The large ledge at the base makes for a great starting point and belay area. Jam, stem, and lay back enjoyable moves up to a steep section of Rock. Pull a Crux sequence here until you gain the top of a large delaminating section of wall that will make you wonder if it would be a good idea to immediately shit your pants and bail. In 2017 I beat on this area with a sledgehammer and 4 foot pry bar with no response so it appeared to be good at that time ... continue up the corner system to a 2 bolt chain anchor. Pitch 2- 5.10d standard rack to 4". Continue up the slab inside corner on moderate terrain with a couple slightly run out sections. The final Crux is located at the top of the wall where the climb gets more vertical. Stem and jam your way up to a 2 bolt chain anchor located on the lip at the top of the cliff.

Location

This route is located at the West End of the large slab face in the largest dihedral. It is best reached by repelling the route from an anchor located at the top of the cliff and a second anchor located in the middle of the wall. Walk off the top or if lowering to the canyon floor a third fixed anchor can be located 15 M east from the start of the route. Use this to repel station to lower down the scree slope rather than doing the Jenga Tower scramble along the base of the cliff .

Protection

Standard rack to 4", 2- 2 Bolt Chain Anchors.