Sun King

Sun King is located downhill and west of the

Orange Julius

area and just right of

Sicilian Defense

. Begin in a thin crack underneath four bolts. For those familiar with the Bookend this is just left of the Foxhead.

Pitch one (old school 5.10d) was bolted on the lead and consequently the easiest path is not always directly in line with the bolts. This pitch is loaded with exciting 5.10 face climbing with the technical crux passing the first bolt. Decent trad gear can be had at a couple horizontal cracks between bolts #2 and #3. There is a new Fixe anchor at the belay and you can rap with a 60m rope to the ground from here. According to Gillett, pitch two (5.11d) turns the corner left to a hidden bolt, then climbs back right past three more bolts to a two bolt belay. This pitch didn't look so much like free climbing to me.

Descent is two single rope raps.

Bring a light rack up to 2.5 inches including some very small nuts or RPs. The last two bolts on pitch one appear to be 3/8" machine thread and the hangers are rusting. These should be replaced with actual climbing hardware.