Blood Feud

This is a free variation of the route described in the [Gillett] Guide as Wide Gauge (5.7 A3) which starts on the route No Bozos (10c sandbag) and after 40 feet forks left into the Blood Feud. No Bozos is the "price of admission" into this stellar pitch with three distinct cruxes and an enduro rating. Redpointed with a couple of nuts in place (lodged after some hard falls), this is perhaps one of the best 5.12 cracks at Lumpy. This pitch takes solid gear the whole way.

An all naturally protected pitch which sews up with a full rack from #4 Camalot down to #4 stopper. Extras of #1 and #2 Camalots may be helpful. There is a fixed pin in the thin crack of No Bozos which was not used on the FFA due to the extra moves involved in reaching it. A #0.5 Camalot protects this first crux traverse into the Blood Feud crack. The route stays right of the Chemise Demise chimney to the top. There is now a sling anchor on the top of this pinnacle. A 70m rope is helpful to get off but not necessary.