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Peak Mountain 3

Blades of Glory

FA Kelsey Gray and Sterling Anderson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route traverses up an awkward ramp to an awkward move to a chockstone rest (you stand on it) to some poorly spaced bolts on a blunt arete. If you're climbing this route a few of the following things might have happened: 1) you looked in the guide and saw it had 4 stars, 2) you don't have a guide 3) It looks dry and everything else looks wet, 4) You hate your life and like climbing dumb stuff. Some notes from the FA: From the belay anchor follow interesting and unique moves through a ramp that pulls out below a face. Traverse right to the edge and stand on the giant chockstone to head up the arete. Once at the anchor you can belay here and walkoff to the right or lower back down to the anchor for In Record Time. This is a great place to belay your follower and watch their responses at the strange movement. Here are a few important notes: 1. The guidebook lists this as 4 stars and that is not correct. Its fun if just for the strangeness of the moves, but not 4 stars. 2. Don't fall between the first and second bolt or beware the Blades of Glory.3. Important Follower Info!: Don't unclip the draw that protects the crux move exiting the ramp until you are standing on the ledge! The swing would be unpleasant. 4. You can rappel from the top of the pitch back to the ground with a 60m. Tie knots in the end. you may ask yourself what this route means, no one knows what it means. 

Location

Above Record Time and Sacktapped

climb starts 20ft to the left of the anchor on these climbs.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor