Broken Head

A route originally bolted by Paul Turecki. It climbs on really grippy rock with an assortment of feet for the crux between small interspersed hands to a long dead-point. The route starts in a black water streak and then moves up to the arete and upper slab, to the right of an arching roof.

Crux Spoiler:

The crux is a long deadpoint with multiple good feet from a small crimp and sidepull to a sloping left sidepull. Follow the arching line of bolts 1-3 through the crux staying away from the arete until the bolt line transitions to the arete. The crux starts at bolt one and is almost over after dead-pointing to where bolt two is, but ends when you gain the clipping stance for bolt three. The crux finishes as you set up and clip bolt three. From there follow the arete and face to the anchor. If you don't follow the arcing bolt line and head for the arete without doing the deadpoint, the route is much easier.

The crux is approximately V6 to V7-. Rotate torso left and inward and latch the sidepull and lock down the thumb, lie back hard, adjust right foot and move to positive crimps and gain the arete. Good rest at the 4/5th and then .11 slab 2nd crux.

OR

Start the route and transition to the arete on more positive holds to the arete before the 2nd bolt and climb the arete the entire way for a decent 5.11 sport route.

Choose Life....Choose your own adventure.

The middle of the Wishbone wall. Defined by a dark black water streak and arete.

6 Bolts with new hardware as of 2016