- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is located on the Northwest face. Screw is the second large crack system to the right of the large roof. The route starts with a blocky crack that leads to a chimney about thirty feet from the start. Once through the chimney stay to the right and follow the hand crack to a large ledge. Belay from this ledge. The first 15' after this ledge is offwidth. Cross the nearly horizontal section and finish the climb with a perfect hand crack. Walk off to the left.
Protection
I recommend a #4 Camalot to protect the offwidth crack at the start of the second pitch.
Per
Kurtz
: there is a set of rappel rings about 20 feet climber's right of the top of P1 that you can't see until you traverse the ledge A 70m rope gets you down with plenty to spare. I am not sure, but I think a 60m might reach.
Routes in Valley Massif
- 4Screw5.7Trad