- Edit (TBD)
Description
Zipper starts about 40 feet right of
Screw
. Midway up the climb, you will a group of 3 parallel cracks. You can use this feature to help you find the start.
P1 - go up pretty easy ground (20 feet) and then enter the off-width. In my opinion, entering the off-width is the crux. Grunt your way up to a ledge (another 20 feet) and belay.
P2 - there are 3 variations to P2, each given a its own name in Harper's guidebook. Zipper follows the right-most crack (more off-width). The Snap variation which we took goes up the middle crack/slot. It begins with a couple of thinner parallel cracks in the slot and then continues into some moderate off-width. The Button variation is the leftmost hand crack. Harper's book decribes it as sustained and hard to protect, but I don't know since we didn't climb it. Belay at huge platform.
P3 - Smile as you cruise up a straightforward but interesting hand crack. Place everything from nuts to that #4.5 Camalot you hauled up. This pitch has consistent foot jamming, but it's not all hand jams all the way up.
Walk off to the Northeast following the path of least resistance.
Protection
stanard rack, plus some made-for-Vedauwoo big gear, including a couple #4 camalots, a #4.5 camalot and/or a #3(green) big bro. You might want to bring a couple extra hand size pieces for the last pitch, but it isn't completely necessary.
Routes in Valley Massif
- 8Zipper5.8+Trad