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Peak Mountain 3

Cousins Direct

FA Mike Maiden
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the easy, angling crack just to the right of Bruner Head.

Cruise up the easy crack until you reach the hanging arete. A wild, dynamic boulder problem guards access to the arete, but once established, the difficulty of the climbing eases significantly. Catch a knee-bar rest at the horizontal break and hold on through the crux of “Cousins”

There is a belay anchor where the crack meets the hanging arete. If you prefer, the route can be climbed in two pitches. For the sake of casual cragging, I chose to climb in in a single pitch from the ground.

70m rope REQUIRED if climbing in 1 pitch!

Location

This route climbs the easy, angling crack just to the right of the start of Bruner Head. From the top of the crack, climb the arete to the anchor of Cousins

Protection

70m rope REQUIRED if climbing in 1 pitch!

For the crack: 2 bolts, Gear from 0.3-#2 and lots of long slings. The gear I used was…

Yellow alien + 2’ sling

0.4 + 2’ sling

Bolt + 4’ sling

Bolt + 4’ sling

#1 + 4’ sling

#2 + 4’ sling

One more 4’ sling for the anchor

For the arete: ~10 bolts… regular quick draws do the trick