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Peak Mountain 3

I'm Your Huckleberry

FA Randy Leavitt, with help from Brian Spiewak, Zach Gelbart, Glenn Svenson, Chris Hubbard, Mike Matelich (2013)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I'm Your Huckleberry has been called the best 5.13 in the San Diego area by some.

Approach the base by climbing Bruzer Head (5.8 sport) to anchors on the roomy grassy ledge. From here continue up Crackamite (5.10d), protecting with a variety of cams from aliens to #2 Camalots.

Halfway up Crackamite, head right up the steep headwall protected by bolts. The variety of moves you do to the chains is wonderful. The crux is 15 feet below the chains where you must do a powerful bouldering Gaston sequence. Taller climbers will be able to reach past the powerful gaston moves here, rendering the climb easier than 13b. In any case, it is a wonderful climb.

Best to do this in the spring time in the morning shade, or afternoon shade. During the short winter days, wait for a colder day as it is in the sun then.

Location

Starts on Crackamite (5.10d) and finished independently up and right following bolts.

Lower down from anchors to clean, or lower down then top rope to clean gear, then lower back down (better)

This climb follows the huge left facing corner above Line Of Fire on the right side of the main El Cajon Mountain cliff.

Protection

1 each Aliens - green, yellow, red

1 each C4s - purple

2 each C4s - red

3 each C4s - gold

at least 6 long slings on your lower cams to reduce rope drag

70M rope

3 bolt anchor at the summit