Demon's Dance

This route ascends the seldom explored west side of clean slab between the Regge Pole and the McQuarrie Route.

P1:  Climb the first 40' of the McQuarrie route to the large featured slab on the left (below a big roof). Traverse left across the slab to where the roof ends, move farther left to a gear belay at a wide crack beneath the big slab above. 5.6. This belay can also be approached from directly below via 5.5 climbing.

P2:  Face climb up the poorly protected face (5.7) to a flake and higher to a bolt. Aid climb past a short bolt ladder (4 or 5 bolts) to a tiny green corner. Free climbing up this leads to a semi hanging belay, 5.11... great pitch.

P3: Edge up to thin cracks and flakes past a fixed pin or two and follow these to the belay atop Pedestal Ledge on Arm and Hammer, 5.10a.

Start at the McQuarrie Route.

Singles to 4"