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Peak Mountain 3

Dire Direct

FA Scott Keller, Mike Lyons, Brian Wieland, Jake Anderegg, 1996
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The bolted line on the mottled face just right of the

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

route. This route starts at the belay ledge at the top of the

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

2nd pitch and climbs 2 pitches to meet back up with the

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

route.

From the

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

belay ledge, climb up and right to clip your first bolt. Six bolts up this face and 100' of somewhat spacey, 5.10 climbing on crumbly rock brings you to another ledge (where the next

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

belay is located). Continue climbing up a thin crack (a .4 can be placed here). The piton at the top of this crack is missing so bring micros and cross your fingers. Traverse to the right and clip the next bolt. Four more bolts and up through the 10d crux brings you to the 2 bolt belay. A few more bolts and some gear will bring you to the

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

pitch 5 anchors. A 60 meter rope will get you down fine.

Don't let the crumbly rock deter you! It's not quite as bad as the top of

Ellsworth-McQuarrie

. Get out there and test your finesse on those flexing flakes...

Protection

Same gear as for Ellsworth-McQuarrie, and maybe a couple of micros or RPs + 10 draws for bolts.