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Peak Mountain 3

Hippy Speedball

FA Joe Larson
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UPDATED 

Description

Start by scrambling up the choss pillar (careful here) to reach the first bolt, which you want to unclip for rope drag after clipping the second. Fun climbing through the pockets and small dihedral leads to a compression crux at the 11th bolt. From here, steep jugs lead all the way past a first set of anchors with a redpoint crux that comes in the last few bolts.

A full 80m rope will just get you down from the top anchors (knot in the end). If your rope is shorter, you can lower down to the mid-set of anchors, pull your rope, and lower again with a 60m rope (again, knot in the end). I would recommend bringing at least 4-5 24" runners and some longer draws as well.

Location

This is roadside, about halfway in between the Arsenal and the Wicked Cave. It is directly across from the Wicked Cave swimming pool.

Protection

22 bolts. Lower twice if your rope is shorter than 80m.