Black Quacker

This is a fun route to do if you want a long, sustained trad route. Start in the huge left facing corner near the center of the south face of Rappel Rock.

Pitch 1: Climb the 5.6 squeeze chimney for 40 feet and exit into gully up to tree belay. (Many parties start up the Standard Route instead, to avoid this heinous chimney. To bypass this chimney pitch, climb the 5.5 crack just right of Black Quacker until you can traverse left back to tree belay in gully.)

Pitch 2: Continue up gully, climbing over large blocks and some vegetation. Cleaner climbing above leads past steep moves to one-bolt belay in notch.

Pitch 3: From notch, lead up and left into obvious cracks. Fun climbing for 100' to two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4: From bolt belay, climb right and up around corner. Follow easy face up to belay on chickenheads.

Pitch 5: More easy chickenhead hiking leads to summit area and tree belay.

Descent: Third class down back side of Rappel Rock to return to saddle.

60m rope; Standard rack (larger pro if you want to do the chimney first pitch?); single and double length runners for tying off chickenheads.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.