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Peak Mountain 3

Rotissima Bueno

FA SG,PN 1980 (Steiger's Guide '85)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

According to Steiger's Guide "the trick is to prevent yourself from interrupting the crux sequence by pulling over the lip to easy ground".

This route can easily be found as a left leaning, lower-angle, slabby corner with two pitons visible from the ground. The climb begins to get more strenuous as the corner becomes cleaner some lie backing and stemming become necessary. The pro seemed good and the pitons were well backed up.

I pulled around a lip at the second piton; this variation is still fun and goes at 10+ before easing up, this felt very natural so I thought this was the line. Apparently another opportunity to exit the corner can be found higher up, and also goes at hard 5.10.

The route's real crux occurs when one remains in the corner.

Protection

Single rack with nuts and plenty of slings