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Peak Mountain 3

Mountain Minor

FA Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague, Robert Hall
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts in a right facing corner (photo) about 30 feet left of Big Foot's arete.

Pitch 1:(5.10a) Climb the face and corner, with the crux after good gear about half way up at a bulge. Continue up the corner to a two bolt anchor at the base of an alcove.

Pitch 2:(5.10 b/c) Climb into the alcove and exit up a slabby face on the right. Transition onto the main face at the top of the slab and head straight up following the path of least resistance to the base of the right-diagonalling crack. Follow this diagonal crack to its top at a two bolt anchor. Rappel twice with a 60 meter rope, or lower directly to the ground with a seventy.

With enough gear and a 70m rope you can combine both pitches. A 60m is a little tight to lower from the top with the rope going through the gear. However, breaking it into two allows the belayer to see what is going on while climbing up the side of the alcove and there is less rope drag.

Protection

Both pitches take mostly good gear. A single rack of camalots to number two, with doubles of gray to green helpful, and a few small to medium nuts for the second pitch. Bring more cams, slings and a 70m rope if combing the two pitches.