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Peak Mountain 3

Before the Fall

FA John Kelbel & Dan Caston, August 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the most exposed climbs at Seneca and like its namesake climb the thrilling steep upper arête before it falls off!  Often only the excellent 3rd pitch gets done as pitch 2 is R rated.

P1: Staying right of Thais move up and out to the right. Aim for the right side of Thais chimney and the right side of a belay tree.

P2: Move up about 20ft and then left toward the outer edge of Thais chimney, you will soon find a crack system on the outer face of the column.  Pass a bolt and continue up the column. Just past the end of Thais chimney there is a stance.  Continue up the outside face of a steeper second column, note the gear gets limited as you approach the top of it.  The top of this second column is at the intersection of Thais Escape.  Step left into a thin vertical crack and climb 12ft to a small belay ledge on the left and build a gear anchor.

P3: Climb the very end of the supper exposed  arête.  Halfway up there is a stance out to the right on a block should you want a rest.  Near the top you will briefly move onto the left face of the  arête  then back out right ducking under and around the very top protruding fin.  I have always belayed sitting on the top of this 8" wide fin.

Location

Start at the center of the large left facing wall that splits the south summit. And just right of the start of Thais.

Protection

Pitch 1 can be a bit unprotected in the beginning however is easy or one could opt to do the first pitch of Thais.  Pitch 2 has some tricky to find gear placements and in places is R rated, it has one bolt but could use two more.  Pitch 3 has ample gear placements available.


Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)


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    Before the Fall
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