We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Old Ladies Route

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

#1 Climb up through the notch between Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb. Belay on a flat ledge with a view to the east. Or initially belay on the west side of the notch for convenience, then move the belay prior to doing P2.(90 feet)

#2 Move out onto the East Face by climbing right and then down. After one exciting move, begin traversing right on an easy ledge to several large trees. This is also a high version that allows the leader to protect the second: traverse right from the belay and step over to a narrow left-facing corner and good handholds. Finish on the ledge traverse. (75 feet)

#3 Climb up and right to the north end of the ledge and climb the sloping flake/ chimney. (100 feet)

#4 Walk right on the large Summit Ledge for about 100 feet to the final Summit Ridge. Many people simply scramble up the exposed 4th class section to the summit. If you are unsure of your ability, belay the final exposed section to the actual summit.

Location

Begin on the Luncheon Ledge, at the gap between Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb.

Protection

Standard trad rack and long slings


Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)


  1. 78
    Old Ladies Route
    5.2
    Trad