- Edit (TBD)
Description
Bolee Gold begins at the end of the big ramp on the south face of Sugarloaf. From here, follow the line of bolts straight up the thin face towards the top anchors of 'Hookers Haven' (the 12a to the right). Bolee Gold doesn't use the anchors, but continues left towards the arete then up to the first set of anchors. The first pitch totals 7 bolts. The second pitch continues straight up past another 7 bolts to another hanging belay.
The two pitches can be done as one for a 150' non-stop sustained crimp-fest. This is what I base the 3 star rating on.
From here, continue directly upwards past some flakes, then onto easier slab that is runout, but bolt-protected 5.8.
Protection
Pro to 3 inches plus a minimum of seven quickdraws. You can easily rappell down the face with just one rope, or walk off the northern side of sugarloaf.
Routes in South Face
- 2Bolee Gold5.10cTrad