Bewilderbeast

Spring 2007. Tr'd once to affirm viability and ascertain bolt placement. Lead on first attempt. Beautiful, clean, high friction rock that was never climbed because the route doesn't reach the ground!

Start up Beast of Burden until 3rd bolt is about head high. Traverse left on delicate moves about 10 feet (11c?). Head straight up cool moves past knobs (sling). Crux starts when leaving the huge knob and the next 10 feet or so (11d?), but remains tricky after that (11). At top a tricky very insecure move (11c?) gains the arete and then follow to the top. One can bail left to finish up Gallows Pole which is easier (but that defeats the purpose). Easy to set TR from end of first pitch of Hardings Chimney/Gallows Pole with 60m.

comes out of Beast of Burden

Bolts