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Ebony Eggshells
Description
The first pitch of this aptly named route was put up back in 1988 by Chris and Gary. Later, Bo Beck and John Tainio aggregated a second pitch.
If you're not into adventure, then stay away from this route. It's called Ebony Eggshells for a reason! Every pitch is covered in relentlessly thin varnish. Expect to break off your fair share of holds. BRING A HELMET.
Pitch 1: The protectable crack starts about 15 feet off the deck. Follow this crack upward 75-80 feet, utilizing both the thin crack (ranging from fingers to pods of hands) and incredibly fragile face holds to a two bolt belay. 5.9/5.9-
Pitch 2: Continue up the crack on the right up slightly easier terrain to another two bolt belay. . Protection is scant, so you might want to consider bringing extra slings to sling the varnish patina to reduce runouts. (although there's no guarantee that the varnish will hold). Two Bolt Belay. 5.8
Pitch 3: Continue up faceholds and finger cracks with very little protection up the ever chossier rock trending left below the bulge. Two bolt Belay. 5.7/5.8 (this pitch isn't recommended, ropes can easily get stuck on the pull to rappel)
Location
From the West Canyon Road, hike the 'Three Ponds Trail' down the very sandy wash West until you reach the northernmost face of the Falcon Aerie Buttress. This climb is in the center of the wall on the bulging formation.
Protection
Single Rack from .3-4", Nuts, Slings.