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Peak Mountain 3

W'gasa

FA John Tainio, Matt Kindred, Jorge Visser; March 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

W'gasa (Who gives a shit anyway) is a good, 3-pitch mixed (trad/sport) climb.

Pitch 1:

Starts at the base of the second arch from the left. Follow the widening crack clipping the occasional bolt and plugging gear under the arch trending left and upward. and eventually pulling over a small bulge to a 2 bolt belay. 5.8 (115 ft.)

Pitch 2:

Traverse left from the belay upward following a line of pitons on razor-thin varnish that eventually trends right again to a two bolt belay. This pitch is fairly low angle, making for easier traversing. 5.7 (80 ft.)

Pitch 3:

Continue 20-25 ft up the unprotectable slab to the obvious flake at the top of the formation. The flake protects well with everything from a .5-5" cam. There are no bolts at the top of the crack. So expect to set up a gear belay before you top out.

Descent:

Once you reach the top of the formation, scramble down the squeeze chimney and move to the north where you will pass a boulder with slings & webbing wrapped around it. Either set up a short rappel down the ramp or continue scrambling north down the low angle ramp to a tree with a two bolt anchor.

From this set of anchors, make two rappels to the ground.

Location

From the West Canyon Road, follow the 'Three Ponds Trail' down to the very sandy wash. From the wash, hike southwest to the base of the second arch to the left. A lot of scrambling and bushwacking in required to find the base.

Protection

Single rack from .5-4", big gear optional, nuts optional. Quickdraws for bolts. Slings might also be a good idea to reduce drag.