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Peak Mountain 3

Power To The People

FA Gerry Jessuran and Nate Durrant (circa 2008?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch #1:

Begin by climbing up the short crack on the right side of the flake. Once at the top of the flake, stand and clip a bolt on the left side of the face. Make a few insecure moves on small sloping knobs and patina along a shallow runnel (5.9). There are a few spots to sling small knobs above before reaching the next bolt  (somewhat runout). Follow the runnel for 20' then move out left onto the face, passing 2 more bolts before reaching the base of a vertically "striped" patina face. From below, this feature appears like the back of a clenched fist, thus the routes given name. Step up to the base of the "fist" and clip a bolt. Follow up the patina, moving left then right to reach good knobs to sling. Continue upward to a huge knob. Surmount the knob then head to the 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Pitch #2:

Most folks rap from here using 2 ropes. Otherwise, continue up on the open slab, passing several good pro options. Reach a large bench-like rock (90'). Belay from here on pro. No bolts. From here, walk up and left to reach the descent gully (rather bushy but doable).

On a historical note, the first ascentionist placed the second bolt AFTER completing the FA. So, when you're on the route, imagine not having that second bolt. Yep! Originally rated 5.9X.

Location

Based on the Melting Wall topo (posted on The Melting Wall page), locate 'Wingman' (.10d). Scramble left past 'Wingman and' up to a terrace. Go 30' left along the terrace. Locate a large triangle-like shaped flake leaning on the wall that leads up to a shallow runnel. This is the start to 'Power To The People'.

Protection

  • standard rack, pro to 3"

  • Slings for knobs

  • quickdraws