- Edit (TBD)
Description
Of the moderate routes listed in the
'Shuteye Ridge'
guidebook, it's this authors opinion that 'Three Feathers' (5.9+) is a classic gem at Lost Eagle! A must do! Like the rest of the Melting Wall routes, this is a pure trad route, allowing one to sling knobs and slot nuts and small cams between patina plates. The route is signatured by three distinct runnels, seperated by vertical fins and plates.
Begin up the middle "feather" and work up on knobs and fins, slotting nuts and cams. Seize the opportunity to get in pro when its available. The moves through the middle of the route are very enjoyable and wild, several high step rock overs and stemming from fin to fin. This route can seem to be a bit runout to some if not familiar with creative knob slinging and horizontal nut slotting. Continue upward. Eventually, the climbing eases up and one arrives at a 2-bolt ring anchor on ledge (90'). Lower from here.
Location
Once at the base of The Melting Wall, head right and up to terrace along the wall. Locate three dark runnels. Start here.
Protection
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Slings w/ biners
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Small nuts, cams to .75