Desolation Angels

Desolation Angels is located on the left (west) side of Rock of Ages. It ascends the obvious clean right facing dihedral. Scramble up to the base of Tipendicular and boot up. The 1st pitch climbs out right and up a pretty loose, ugly, unprotected corner. The pitch is rated 5-6 but feels more like 5-9. Don't let your pal from the rock gym lead this one. Luckly, there are two new bolts at the belay. Pitch two is killer! It climbs up the corner and out a roof (reachy). The gears looks like it might suck but there is a hidden crack on the left wall (under the roof). The pro after the roof is solid but is pumpy to place. The upper crack is not a path! I thought it was harder than the roof. Save some guns for the summit mantel. Overall a very interesting route. Rap from a tree or hike down the east slabs.

The pro on the 1st (5-6) pitch is bad. Small cams and RPs are helpful. There is a two bolt anchor on top of pitch one. Pitch two takes small to medium size cams. Double up on the small stuff. The pro on this pitch is good. No fixed anchor on top!