Nameless Demons

Go to the left-hand end of Rock Of Ages' lower wall and look for the large dihedral system. This gets morning shade.

P1: Climb up and right on a slab from an old log to the corner, then place a few nuts or a small cam for a directional before starting up the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral to a bulge. This is pumpy underclings and locks. One good rest has a solid 3.5" - 4.5" placement just there (#3.5 Camalot is perfect). This is a 'Thank God' placement because the a few of the others are semi-shallow, small cams. Arrive at the bulge and pass it by on a 1.5" cam before belly-flopping onto a shallow slab. This is probably the most awkward 5.10 move I've ever done. It is apparently much easier for shorter people. If you are tall, the combination of the thin crack and high feet might be quite a spanking. Establish yourself on this slab and build a belay on the corner. although this has been a relatively short pitch (~100'), rope drag will make further progress unpleasant.

P2: Continue up the dihedral to the crux, maybe 5' over the belay. High feet on the left hand wall make this easier than it first appears. This pitch is easier if you are tall. Continue up about 50' to a pine tree, then either traverse left and up to the anchors on the neighboring sport route, or top out on easy moves and then traverse left to the anchors (bolt & pin) up top.

Rap off 115' to the ground. A single 70m just makes it, and a 60m will get you down to a reasonable scramble.

One set of TCUs and cams from 0.5" to 2" plus one #4 Friend. One set of nuts from #4 BD to #12 BD with extras if you want to sew it up.