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Peak Mountain 3

Air Loopis

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Description

Air Loopis is described as one of the benchmark V8s to define the grade. It is more of an endurance problem, but does pack a powerful punch right off the blocks. This is my personal favorite of Morrison.

Start on the big jugs at the bottom of the hole as for

Breashears Crack

and traverse left to the start of

Helicopter

. This is the crux of the route and involves some weird leg positions and really bad hands. Once you fire through this tough section, take a big breath and cruise up Helicopter (which of course you will have completely wired before trying this route). At the top of

Helicopter

, take a big rest on the bomber hand jams before traversing right across the lip of the Black Hole. Stay on the edge and out of the big crack towards the back of the shelf for the route to count. (Remember, this is Morrison!) This final traverse puts you at the top of

Breashears Crack

, which you now merely downclimb back to your starting holds, thus completing the Loop. If you think you are truly tough, do a second loop without getting down. It has been done, but not often! Enjoy.

Protection

Same as all the Black Hole routes, 1-2 pads and a spotter is nice. Otherwise, don't fall.