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Peak Mountain 3

Gun Show

FA June 17, 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a strenuous, short layback with a few crimpy moves. Good forearm torch. The second pitch is about 5.7. It isn't usually climbed, but if parties want to TR Black Arch Arête, the leader can climb this, traverse right, then drop down to the anchors. The second will have to negotiate the same terrain, or pull gear, lower back to the ledge, and walk down around. For those who do this, a 70m rope is required.

P1 30': Climb the vertical crack to the top. Recommend stepping to the right around the small birch at the top.

P2 30': Climb the layback crack on the face left of the anchors.

NOTE: This route lies directly in the bomb zone of ice falling from High & Dry. As such, early season ascents are not recommended. Wait for the ice above to completely fall off before climbing here.

Location

In the Amphitheatre, which lies between the Isobuttress and the Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It buttress. This route is 20' right of Tribulations' start, the obvious vertical crack. Descent: Either rappel on questionable fixed anchors or downclimb the short start of Tribulations, or finish climbing that latter route to the top and walk off (climber's) left to reach the Diagonal Ramp.

Protection

Small to medium cams, small to medium stoppers.