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Peak Mountain 3

Black Arch Arête

FA October 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Gorgeous dihedral to an improbable-looking outside corner, with a delicate crux move near the top. Climb the dihedral about 50', stem out right onto the arête and climb up, passing two bolts, to the overhang. Ascend up the nose, step left to a hidden crack, then climb a short slab above, and either use the bolt anchor (70m rope required!), or climb through another (easier) overhang onto a large ledge.

Location

At the shallow "cave" leading to a dihedral with a wide hand crack in it, near the outside corner of the main buttress. Reach the cave via a short scramble up a chimney on to below & left of the route.

Protection

Full set of cams, an extra #2 & #3 Camalot. Leapfrog the large cams and consider taking a #2 up to protect the crux. Note that the crux is well protected, but the pro is well beneath your feet before finishing the difficulties. The fall looks to be clean.