Trotsky

The crux is in the first 20 feet -- thin moves with small gear for pro. Reach a corner (with relief) and continue on easier ground to a belay on a ledge. Exciting and fun. 5.7 is an "island rating," otherwise known as sandbag. Some say this feels as hard as 5.9.

[NOTE: In the new guidebook this climb is in the area referred to as the "Alcove".]

Follow the normal approach to the South Wall. Proceed to the right until you reach the old stone stairs. The route is to main wall right at the stairs.

Small wires for the lower portion. Medium gear for the upper corner.