Chicken of the Sea

Climb the face up to the hanging corner (which Trotsky follows), and break left up the steep, juggy flake ladder. Pull up on to the slab(the guidebook called this the crux, but I though the steep climbing was harder, if more secure)and follow the small, left facing corner to a ledge and a gear anchor. Alternatively, traverse right from the ledge and belay from the slings at the top of Trotsky's Corner.

[NOTE: In the new guidebook this climb is in the area referred to as the "Alcove".]

The steep face before the stone stairs on the right end of the precipice. Just left of Trotsky's Corner.

Standard rack.

The first twenty feet doesn't have that much gear, but you can get a bomber #7-8 nut in a fingerlock slot about twelve feet up. Other than that, finger sized cams work great behind the flakes.