Love Struck Romeo

Ascend a nice wavy handcrack (5.8) until it ends near a big steep piece of rimrock. Here you must choose to either continue to the top (set up a belay on top of the block and then scramble out; walk off climber's right), or leave some very long slings to rappel. Currently (3/2/16) there is some very old faded cordalette with a single quicklink visible from the ground that is not to be trusted!

This would be a much better route if it had a bolted anchor after the nice hand crack section, but unfortunately since there is not one you have to top out via a loose scramble or leave some very long slings on questionable boulders.

First route on the Shakespeare Cliff, it is up on the hill above the boulders you scramble down to get to the main routes here. It starts after you scramble up on top of a big ledge. It is a nice wavy handcrack on the left side of a pillar indent, with a wide offwidth crack bordering it on the right side (which you can stem against). Look for a wavy handcrack up above a ledge behind a crazy-looking detached pillar.

Gear to a BD #3. No bolted anchor!