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Peak Mountain 3

Sauron

FA Wayne Arrington
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Double cracks immediately left of the bolted route (Measure for Madness, 11d) left of Much Ado About Nothing. Climb to a small ledge then jam, stem, and chimney up to a small roof. Turn this, then find anchors just above the roof on climbers left.

The anchors are shared with As You Like It/Yost In Space.

The roof and headwall make this one of the best 5.9's at Smith.

Location

Lower Gorge, East Columns, across the river from Cruel Sister.

Protection

A few big cams (up to BD #4) could be useful but not necessary.