Delirium

Delirium is composed of several long pitches of quality climbing aiming for the distinct roofs on the east face of the main dome. It is not the most direct route, but the uniqueness of the features make it an excellent climb. The crux is a short boulder problem and can easily be aided. We believe the route traverses across a line established by Firestone and Bancroft which breaks through the middle of the roofs at a more moderate grade.P1- Start in an alcove formed by a left facing corner leading up to a water groove. The finger crack quickly opens to wide hands and fists. The crack then pinches down as the awkward groove opens up. Make some sequential moves and then follow the groove up to a nice ledge with fixed nuts for a belay (11c), 65 meters.P2- Stem and jam the groove off the belay ledge aiming for the chimney above. Follow the blocky climbing in the elevator shaft eventually exiting with some chimney moves. Belay on the big ledge (5.9), 70 meters.P3- Do not go up the chimney! Instead, cross the slab aiming for the bottom of the wide flaring left facing corner. Flaring jams lead you to a belay at another large ledge (5.10c), 25 meters.P4- Pull up into the grassy slot between a granite spike on the left and the main wall on the right. Mount the spike and step across the slot to gain a hand crack. Jam the crack for a few feet and step out left on chicken heads to gain the bottom of a nice hand crack. Climb the crack to a leaning roof and undercling up and to the left. Belay at a stance on a sloping ledge. (5.10b), 45 meters.P5- The first roof traverse pitch. Follow cracks straight above the belay to the right side of the second tier of the roof. Traverse left on underclings and slabby feet passing two bolts. Continue until a crack perpendicular to the roof splits the roof in half. Belay at a stance in the middle of the roof. (5.12a), 35 meters.P6- Continue moving left clipping a bolt until the roof ends. Look for a bolt above the roof and clip it with a short draw to keep the roof from eating your rope. Follow the vertical crack for a few body lengths. Downclimb diagonally and to the left passing the next vertical crack and instead continuing left for another 15 feet to find a 3’x1’ ledge (5.12b/c), 25 meters.P7- Good climbing that seems like it will never end. Go straight off the belay and follow the cracks and shallow corners resisting the temptation to move right and out of line with the belay. Push through two bulges until a dirty hand crack leads you past some loose flakes eventually ending on a belay at a nice ledge. (5.10d) 70 meters.P8- Follow the right facing corner and flake above and slightly right of the belay. Depending on the variation you choose to finish either continue straight up for Delirium Direct (Bushy) or traverse right on the ledge until you are underneath a bolt. Once underneath the bolt, drop down 5 feet to a belay for the right variation (Recommended).Delirium Direct:P8 Continued- Continue up the bushy chimney until you pull a roof at the top leading to a belay in a scoop (5.10a).P9- Follow the hand crack off the belay initially to the right but eventually trending back left. When the crack peters out a slab move connects the upper cracks on this pitch which will lead you to the summit ridge (5.9).Delirium Right (Recommended):P9- Above the ledge make a few face moves clipping the bolt and trending up and left into a wide crack system. Continue up this crack system while keeping an eye out for bolts on the face to the right. Climb the beautiful granite patina clipping two bolts and placing protection where available. The line generally stays to the left of the right facing corner and occasionally loops out onto the patina before eventually finishing up the corner (5.9), 68 meters.P10 - Scramble up blocky features to gain the summit ridge.To descend follow the standard backside rappels on the northwest corner of the dome requiring a single 70 meter rope.

Delirium

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Dome