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Peak Mountain 3

Rebel Quest

FA John Scott, Sam Skrocke, May 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

What a gem! This fantastic line ascends the steep southeast wall on the Main Dome. A challenging route with great exposure on excellent rock. There has been obvious signs of past climbers on pitch 2 and 3. I would love to hear any information about the history of this wall. All belays are equipped (2 bolts) unless noted below.  A few bolts were added to pitch 2, 6 and 7 after the first accent.

P1- Start on the wall beneath the giant boulder in the gully. Stem the two features (Boulder/Wall) to reach the first bolt. Follow the left trending features up toward the right facing corner. Go up the corner until a steep finger crack will escape up and left to the belay ledge. 1 bolt/sling. 5.11b 40m

P2- Climb the steep hand crack to the bulge. Long traverse right past a few more bolts will lead to an anchor below a steep crack. 5.12b 30m

P3- Follow the crack above. Follow corner/crack features trending right to a piton*. Continue up the corner and through steep cracks to a belay beneath the Right facing corner/dihedral above. 1 bolt/sling, 5.12a, 45m * There is a poorly placed bolt on this pitch. After finding "bomber" gear (nut and/or BD.5) in a short finger crack climb up over a bulge and face climb rightish to a left facing corner. There is a good stance just before reaching the flared crack and realizing the pro here would be crap. To get to the bolt above climb good grips straight up to the bolt. Do not mantel the scoop to the left of the bolt. You will not be able to reach the bolt and will find down climbing the mantle very puckering. I am planing on fixing this  5.10d PG13

P4- Climb left trending corners to main corner. Before climbing into the classic, beautiful, would have been mega dihedral that unfortunately blanks out so unfairly, look left for a bolt and enjoy a fantastic workaround past two more bolts. Locate a crack up left of the last bolt and follow this to a slab with an equipped belay. 5.12a 35m

P5- Beneath the bulge. From the anchor go right, hold on and enjoy the ride! 5.12b 30m

P6- Keep following the bulge feature as it starts to trend upward and look more like a right facing corner. Up higher when the feature disappears face climb up to an anchor on a ledge. 1 bolt/sling, 5.11b 35m

P7- Walk left across the ledge and follow bolts to a crack. follow this feature until it abandons you as well. Same game as before: Face climb, bolts, ledge. Gear anchor. 5.10c, 35m

P8- Get ready to fight for the finish. Steep hand crack to a wild finger crack. Gear anchor 5.12a 30m

Location

Follow the obvious trail heading southwest from the end of the road and parking areas. After entering the drainage (west) now follow the far less obvious trail up the drainage for a short while until the drainage splits. From here locate the cairns. They will be on the toe of the ridge that forms here between the to drainages. Work you way up to the base of the wall. Around 1 hour, 2100'. Follow the base of the main wall south. About 30' from where the gully chokes out look for a short scramble on the left to a ramp that will take you to the top of the choke. Near the top of the gully a second choke is encountered this time by a single large boulder. This is the start of Rebel Quest. Instead of scrambling around the boulder to the left locate the bolts on the wall to the right of the boulder.

Protection

Gear: .1 - #3 Doubles .4 - #1 Set of nuts